I’d pretty much run out of excuses for not starting the Big Bench Build. Every week at church I see the kind woman who arranged for me to get all that beautiful lumber for free. I always fear the question, “So have you built it yet?” Don’t ask me why it has been hard to motivate myself to do it. I think maybe it’s because I’ve been planning this workbench for years – literally – and in my head maybe it’s become this grand opus that, despite it being one of my very first projects, must somehow be my best.
I’m past that now.
This isn’t fine furniture; it’s a big rustic wooden table. Once I realized that, I was able to relax. Instead of saying to myself, “I’m building a Roubo-Moxon workbench,” I’m saying, “I’m gluing this board to that board.” And without me even really noticing, I’ve got long stretchers and two of my legs are halfway completed.
But let me back up a bit. Here’s my order of tasks for the build:
- Long stretchers: Done. These are four 1x4s glued together. The inner two are longer and will tenon through the legs.
- Legs: These will be eight 1x6s glued together, alternating two short with two long. The long ones will tenon through the top (with the outer tenons being dovetails).
- Benchtop: I’ll glue up the 1x4s from the inside of the benchtop to the outside. Once I reach the through tenons on the legs I’ll know exactly how long my short stretchers need to be. The mortises in the benchtop will be created by leaving voids in my glueup. The dovetail mortises are the only ones I’m really worried about.
- Short stretchers: I’ll already have cut the mortises in the legs so this should be pretty straightforward.
- Accessories: Leg vise, crochet, double-screw vise (Moxon).
I don’t have any pics of my long stretchers. Not very interesting. So then it was time to figure out the layout of my 32 boards for the 4 legs. Here’s what I was looking at, trying to sort it all out (the long boards are two pieces each):
Some boards are super light, I’m talking balsa light. Why? Dunno. But I have those boards as the load-bearing pieces, always paired with a normal board. I have a few sapwood boards, which will be the interior through tenons – those will be my “anvils” on the benchtop. And the prettiest boards were moved to be the outermost “show” pieces. The colors of my show pieces – the long stretcher, the legs, the benchtop – may not match, but I don’t care. They’ll look nice.
So here are the 32 pieces, in the general shape of my legs:
I’m gluing them up from inside to outside. And while most people say that there are two ways to create a mortise – chopping and boring – I am going to see about a third way: sawing. I’m going to test it on scrap but here’s the plan: Once I have the innermost four boards glued up (3″), I will drill a hole in the midpoint of each edge of the mortise, so that the outside of the hole is the outside of the mortise. Then I’ll slide a hacksaw blade in there and saw from the hole to one corner of the mortise. Repeat until you’ve reached all the corners, and bang, instant mortise! I may clamp some metal rulers on each side to guide the saw, not sure yet. This technique would only work because of the way I’m gluing up my legs. Anyway, I’d appreciate your thoughts on this.
So for now, I’m gluing up the innermost four boards of all four legs. Then I’ll get to work on the mortises for the short stretchers, and the mortise for the nut to the leg vise. Then I can glue the rest of the leg pieces together, leaving voids for the long stretcher tenons along the way.
It is all crystal clear in my mind. What about in yours?






12 comments
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August 21, 2010 at 12:46 am
Larry Eiss
I can hardly wait for the next installments. Please take pictures of the morticing process. I think it should work well. Is that all cherry? Sweet!
August 21, 2010 at 1:15 am
Jason
Looks like a great plan. Good call on the laminating. It will be fun to see it go together. Don’t forget that screwing stuff up and learning all go hand in hand. Good job taking the pressure off. Have fun and build it. They NEVER turn out perfect. Certainly not in my shop.
Cheers.
August 21, 2010 at 1:01 pm
Eric
Hey guys, thanks for the comments!
@Larry: It’s actually called meranti, which is a local hardwood here in Malaysia. It does look nice, doesn’t it! Wait till you see the pieces for the benchtop – even nicer!
@Jason: You got that right, they never turn out perfect. Today I had a warped board to glue up. I can’t really plane it down like you’d normally do, since the leg pieces have to completely line up with the benchtop pieces (what with the legs tenoning through voids in the benchtop glueup and all). So I basically drove several screws through the boards to help hold it all together. I’ve got a few other warped boards to deal with so hey, it’s either do this or head back out to the lumberyard for more wood, which I’m too lazy to do!
August 21, 2010 at 8:29 pm
Gye Greene
Eric,
Hmm — well, I **think** I understand what you’re doing w/ the mortises. But it seems faster to auger a number of overlapping holes, then whack out the triangular scrap in between, with a chisel.
Warped boards: Depending on which direction they’re warped (e.g. cupping, warped, bowed), maybe you can cut them into segments, then “sandwich” them between the layers. Less total tension that way. (If that doesn’t make sense, I can elaborate.)
Good progress!
–GG
August 21, 2010 at 10:08 pm
Amy
I’m excited to see the finished product and to chop garlic by the sink while you cut dove tails on your bench and the kids run in and out and all around.
August 23, 2010 at 9:29 am
Eric
Kitchen smells are rather nice in the “workshop”!
August 22, 2010 at 4:07 am
Seamus
Well I don’t understand
what you’re saying with the mortises
and have to ask,
if you’re gluing up your legs and top
why not create your mortises just
as you create your tenons
during the glue up process?
August 23, 2010 at 9:28 am
Eric
Gye and Seamus: One of the main reasons for doing it the way I am is that I don’t have very good drill bits and find it very hard to do overlapping holes with a brace – the bit just wants to slide around (and inevitably, back into the original hole).
That being said, my idea won’t pan out. It’s just too difficult to saw along a line through 6″ of tropical hardwood with a hacksaw. So now I’m back to other options. A test run of boring with an expansive bit seems to work, as the lead screw holds the bit in place and I can overlap a bit. The only problem is that the width of my mortise is right in the no-man’s land in between my small and large expansive bits’ ranges. No big deal.
Oh, and Seamus – I WILL be creating my long stretcher mortises during the glueup – but here I’m talking about the short stretcher mortises, which have to be chopped or drilled or whatever. Or maybe I’m misunderstanding your misunderstanding.
Gye: With the warped boards, do you mean ripping them into segments? Oh and by the way I’ve found some screw/bolts (pointy tip, hex head) with a nice agressive thread, that do very nicely with reinforcing glueups with nasty warped pieces. I call those bolts my persuaders. I just need to keep in mind to keep them out of the middle where I’ll be boring out my holdfast holes!
August 23, 2010 at 12:39 pm
Gye Green
Based on this diagram — http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/ny/warping_illustration.jpg — my thought is to rip it if it’s cupping, and crosscut it into sections if it’s bowed, crooked, or twisted.
Basically, it seems good to minimize the “spring-loadedness” of the layers in your glue-up.
Augers: all of mine have a center spur, to keep them on track. (I take it yours don’t? If so, that’s pretty interesting!) So, if you have a series of overlapping holes, you’d do the odd ones first, then the even ones — such that the gap on either side of the even ones is symmetrical, and the bit doesn’t have a preference for falling in to either one.
–GG
August 23, 2010 at 3:27 pm
Eric
Thanks for the clarification. I just may do that (cut twisted pieces) with later glueups on the legs. I’m pretty sure that this will be less of an issue with my benchtop boards. They are longer and narrower and would therefore be easier to persuade into position. Besides that, I have a good 5-10 extra boards, so if a board is overly obstinate I’ll just kick it aside.
And as for the augers…uhhh, okay, full disclosure, I’m not even sure – my bits are buried in my tool cupboard. The only ones I’ve been using lately are some Forstners and expansive bits. Can’t remember what I used when I had that bad experience in the past. Planing and drilling are my weak links.
September 10, 2010 at 12:03 pm
DavidH
Looking forward to the rest of this build, I always enjoy watching the process people go through to build a bench they will likely use every time they are out in the shop.
-David.
September 10, 2010 at 1:16 pm
Eric
Thanks David!